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ST TWROG'S CHURCH, LLANDWROG by The Revd R Lewis Edwards M.A.
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THE PARISH ORIGINS LITERARY WORK SITE THE REGISTERS PREVIOUS CHURCH PRESENT CHURCH TOWER BAPTISTERY NAVE CROSSING |
TRANSEPTS CHANCEL ALTAR FURNISHINGS THE GLYNLLIFON CHAPEL CROSS AND CANDLESTICKS REREDOS MONUMENTS BURIAL VAULT SILVER BIBLIOGRAPHY |
Originally the ecclesiastical parish contained the whole of the civil parish, stretching from the grounds of Fort Belan on the Menai Straits to the hills opposite Snowdon. In the last century however, the parish of St. Thomas was formed out of the original parish to contain the upper parts of Llandwrog and the Nantlle Valley. Llandwrog Parish has now been united with Llanwnda Parish and the Church of St Thomas closed.
According to tradition a Christian 'llan' or church settlement was formed in Llandwrog in the middle of the sixth century by Twrog the son of Ithel Hael of Llydaw. Twrog himself was associated with Beuno, the famous Saint of Clynnog, whose historic church lies a few miles away. We know little of the early settlement except that it probably contained a place of worship with a few rude huts on the site of the present churchyard. Although the present village hides the position of the church, its site is slightly elevated above what was the marshland - a typical 'llan.'
The old churches and settlements in the area do not lie far from the ancient pilgrims' route to the sacred island of Bardsey near Pwllheli. The traditional site of Twrog's burial in this parish was Bedd Twrog on the north side of Cilgwyn Mountain, some four miles inland near the village of Carmel. The stones of the grave have probably long since vanished but 'Twrog' appears in names in the area. However, there is also a tradition that the saint was buried in the churchyard of Maentwrog near Ffestiniog, his grave being marked by a great stone there. The reasons for the two traditions are not known unless either he was reburied or one of the 'graves' was a memorial. His Festival Day (Gwylmabsant) in Llandwrog and in Bodwrog in Anglesey, where he was also honoured, is the twenty-sixth of June.
We are indebted to the work 'The Lives of British Saints' by S. Baring-Gould, M.A. and John Fisher, B.D., published in 1913 for a summary of details of the work, quoting also Dr. John Davies of 1632. Twrog is said to have written the noted Welsh M.S., now lost 'The Book of S. Beuno' known also as 'Tiboeth'. I quote 'Tiboeth was the name given to the Book of S. Beuno, with dark stone on it, that was in the Church of Clynnog, in Arfon. This book Twrog wrote in the time of King Cadfan, and it was saved when the church was burnt (Diboeth = unburnt). This I saw says T.W. (Thomas Williams) in the year 1594.'
In time the lost Book of Beuno or Tiboeth became confused with the Book of Twrog (Llyfr Twrog) of Llandwrog for which confusion Iolo Morganwg was partly responsible. The Welsh title of Llyfr Twrog in full shows that it was a compilation of Welsh pedigrees from various sources NOT by S. Twrog but by one Ieuan Twrog of Llandwrog, in the Middle Ages!
The churchyard is circular in form and is elevated upon the surrounding area. The north wall of the churchyard is very ancient but concealed today by the capping etc. There are very old graves and stones including Ellin Williams (south side) Elizabeth Meredith 1700 (east), Jane Glynne Price 1699 and the one with the famous verses to the Blacksmith on the south side of the church. When the church was rebuilt in its present form, graves were removed to make way for the nave etc. The stones of these graves will be found against the walls.
Under the sundial, which was a gift in 1746 of "R.G. Rector", on a moulded and shaped circular stone pedestal on an octagonal base, is a small underground room, now used for storage. This was formerly the death house for the parish. The old registers show that the bodies of seafarers, male and female, were sometimes found on the seashore. They were then brought to this room before burial. The Death House was replaced by the room, now known as the Vestry Room and used for Church meetings, on the north-east side of the church. There is nothing special about this Victorian room.
The old registers, going back to the 16th century, have been deposited in the county archives in Caernarfon where they can be kept under the proper conditions to prevent further deterioration. Some of the current registers contain entries dating back to the early 19th century.
It has been difficult to find details of the previous churches upon this site. The writers of 'The Old Churches of Snowdonia' (Hughes and North) saw some daguerreotypes taken of the old church before it was destroyed, and shown very kindly by the Hon. F.G. Wynn. The church consisted of a nave and chancel under one roof, with double transepts on the north and south sides. The Ancient Monuments of Caernarfonshire Inventory quotes the dimensions of the original which are recorded in the Vestry Books now in U.C.N.W. Library, Bangor as 22yds 14ins in length and 6yds 8ins in breadth with aisles 11yds by 6yds 13ins. The writer of this guide notes that these are the exact measurements of the present chancel and transepts. The former chapel dimensions (Glynllifon chapel) were 5yds 9ins long by 4yds 20ins wide. These are the exact measurements of the present chapel.
The East Window was of five lights with cinque-foiled heads, with perpendicular tracery above with trefoil-headed lights, the whole enclosed under a four centred arch with label moulding. The present window is also of five lights. Beneath the chancel was the Glynllifon burial crypt which remains to this day. How much of the previous church and how many of the interior fittings of the old church remain in the present church will be discussed later in this guide. Mr. Wynn informed the authors of the book, quoted here, that the chancel ceiling had little angels with extended wings at the starting of the vault. It is interesting to note that the centre of the church today has four similar angels in the ceiling at the starting of the vault. Some of the old woodwork of the church was apparently taken to Glynllifon (turned altar rails, some seat-ends and the base of the wooden pulpit, the remainder of which is in the present church).
The present church was built in 1856 and completed in 1860. The architect was Henry Kennedy of Bangor and the patron of the church, who gave it, was the Lord Newborough of Glynllifon. Remains of the previous church are reported evident in the crypt and foundations. Aspects are described liturgically; as its predecessor cruciform: Nave, Crossing, Transepts and Chancel; south-west Tower and Spire forming the principal entrance; small vestry in the angle of the North Transept and Chancel, south-east chapel, the Glynllifon Chapel. This is an 'estate church' and Llandwrog an 'estate village'. Externally random coursed limestone, ashlared dressings, internally thin ashlar sandstone; slated roof on pitchpine structure. The style 'decorated' 14th century gothic. Excellent fittings internally, arranged 'college fashion' West choir and organ gallery, good stained glass and original oil light fittings. Superb 18th century and early 19th century monuments in the Glynllifon Chapel.
As one approaches the church, the tower rises to 110 feet and is a landmark over the village and a navigation mark over the straits. Entry into the porch or entrance is through a massive iron door. On the left in the corner is the ancient font, some two feet deep. This may be the one mentioned in the table of benefactions as presented by Thomas Gwynne in 1703. On the right, a door leads to the staircase to the tower and steeple in which there are the ringing room and the bell-chamber containing two bells. This part is not open to the public.
Through a massive oak door the visitor now reaches the Baptistery. On the left on the wall is a marble mural monument with a mourning female figure looking at an empty urn. This monument is to the Bodwell family of Bodfan . On centre left there is the present font of octagonal stone with a slate plinth for the priest. The stone screens on each side carry the weight of the choir gallery in which there is a pipe organ dated 1863. A brass plaque records that it is on permanent loan from the family of Glynllifon. A newspaper report has suggested that this is one of the best organs of its age in North Wales and the North-West. This part of the church is only open by appointment.
The appearance of this church is very unusual. Instead of the usual pews or chairs, the seating is provided in oak stalls set against the walls with one pew in front of each section and facing towards each other. This seating is more like that of a college chapel or a cathedral chancel. The oak linings on each side partially hide the stained glass windows. From the nave it is possible to see the gallery and the top of the screens with the window at the west end of the church.
Up above can be seen the four angels, something which many people have not noticed on their visits to the church. There are the two reading desks contemporary with the rebuilt church. However, on the right to the south of the arch is the old oak pulpit or desk, remaining, like many monuments, from the previous church. Its date is not certain but it contains a very fine 16th century carved panel, depicting the Crucifixion, of Flemish work. The base of the pulpit and another panel were not put in the church. On the left on the north side of the arch is the pulpit of the last century, a very fine stone one, octagonal in shape and of some height.
The seating continues around this transept with the single pews in front of the stalls. A memorial window is on the north wall to the Griffith family.
SOUTH TRANSEPT
The same type of seating is found here also. There is a memorial window, which is said to be very fine, on the south wall, to the Newborough family. The lectern is on the edge of this transept. It is of oak with a swivel top so that it can be turned according to which bible is being used, Welsh or English.
Before entering the chancel the visitor passes through another screen, a free standing iron screen which incorporates stalls to the east side. This screen is contemporary with The present church building. Intentionally or otherwise, the decorations on the back of the seats protrude and ensure that the occupant is attentive at all times! On the north wall is another tablet to the Newborough family. In the wall also is the door to the Vestry. On the east wall is a fine five light window which was placed in the church in memory of Frances Maria, Lady Newborough. The altar itself is a slab on marble columns and is very beautiful. The rails are ornate and of iron. A small occasional table bears the collection plates.
A large brass cross and two large brass candle sticks with similar flower vases are to be found. The candlesticks are not usually on the altar outside services. The soft furnishings, kneelers etc., have been worked recently by members of the Church including members of the Mothers' Union.
In the left corner of the sanctuary is the banner of the GFS which has lapsed again after being revived a few years ago. In the right corner of the sanctuary is the banner of the Mothers' Union (Undeb y Mamau). This banner was made for the Mothers' Union by the Rev. A.W. Cherry, priest of the Church of England, who up to the time of his death, lived in retirementat Llandwrog.
Before entering the Chapel, one has to pass through the third screen in the Church, this time not of stone, nor of metal but of wood, a simple oak screen with traceried panels. Most of this screen is said to have come from the previous church. As one enters the chapel to the front is a small altar similar to the main altar and contemporary with it; we find a number of good 18th century gothic chairs and kneelers which have been upholstered with old womanish embossed leather, probably of the 17th century and now not in a very good condition in view of its age. The public are asked not to use these chairs and stools.
These were a gift from the Trustees of the former St Mary's Teacher Training College in Bangor and were presented by the former students years ago. They are excellent examples of work in the 1930s.
Rev. A.W. Cherry made the beautiful reredos and painted the three pictures: Christ with little children on the left; Christ with Jairus's daughter on the right; in the middle Christ offering help to all those who are suffering.
The Family goes back in this area to the 9th century. Cilmin Troed-ddu (blackfoot), escaping from the Saxons in the North, built himself a house on the River Llifon in a wooded glen. He was of noble birth and a cousin of Rhodri the Great. The legend goes that he went up to Tre'r Ceiri to search for treasure in a cave. The demons chased him and, in escaping, he jumped over a river, his left foot slipped into the water and turned black. A black foot appears on the crest of the Glynllifon Family, in a stained glass window in the house, the former seat of Lord Newborough, now taken over by the Council. Thomas Wynne of Bodfuan married Frances Glynne in 1700.
It was in the 15th century that the family look the surname Glyn or Glynne and began to extend their possessions mostly by marriage.
There are on the walls superb 18th century and early 19th Century monuments. Most of these are from the previous church and contain (see Inventory of Ancient Monuments Caernarvonshire II), 1960 memorials to: Sir Thomas Wynn of Bodvean, 1749; a large marble monument with a bust supported on scrolled brackets and a shell; on either side are lighted lamps and above is a blank shield with a swagi at the base of the monument is a cherub.
Ellen and Frances Glyn, co-heirs of Sir John Glyn of Glynllivon 1711 and 1709; marble mural monument with a rounded pediment and two burning lamps; at the top is a shieldarg, a double headed eagle displayed sa.
An interesting window on the south wall is to Faith, Hope, Fortitude, Justice and Charity.
Underneath the Chancel is the Glynllifon burial vault which is approached from outside and which was last used some years ago. The door to the vault is under the East Window and has above it a, 16th -17th stone panel with double-headed eagle. Although restored in the last century, it is very worn on the surface.
This is not on display except on very special occasions and is now kept for security in bank vaults. It contains a silver chalice of 1619 and marked Hug.Gwynne.and.William. Glyn.Churchwardens Anno. Dm 1619, a large plain silver chalice dated 1699-1700, a paten cover for this chalice, a circular silver dish dated 1703-1704 with flat rim with moulded edge and a double headed eagle displayed in a lozenge, etc.
Inventory of Ancient Monuments of Caernarvonshire II (1960)
The Old Churches of Snowdonia (Hughes and North)
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